Bridget Foley’s Diary: I.D. Required

Givenchy's changing identity: Riccardo Tisci's elevated Goth, fall 2015; Clare Waight Keller's strong-shoundered chic, fall 2020.

Brand identity. Its crystal-clear definition is supposed to be essential to a vibrant business. Particularly so in fashion, or one would think, given its visual nature. Yet at the major brand level in fashion today, clarity of identity is as past tense as the bustle.
Case in point: Givenchy. The brand and Clare Waight Keller officially parted ways on Friday after a single three-year contract. During her tenure, Waight Keller eschewed the boho prettiness she worked at Chloé that got her the job, embracing instead (with some digressions) a harder, Eighties-inspired look with elements of sharp tailoring and some archival riffs. She followed Riccardo Tisci who, over 12 years, elevated Goth to an unlikely level of high chic.
The Waight Keller departure was a long time in coming; rumors had circulated for some time that a re-up for her wasn’t in store once her contract ended. In a piece in Monday’s WWD, Miles Socha noted some of the names in circulation as her successor: Jil Sander’s Luke and Lucie Meier; 1017 Alyx 9SM founder Matthew Williams; Paco Rabanne’s Julien Dossena; Gucci design director Davide Renne. Socha also cited a provocative phrase from the brand’s announcement, that it would soon reveal a new “creative organization.”

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